Break down your food scraps quickly and cleanly with the BioPod Plus.

Food scraps can easily cause odor and pest problems in a compost pile, but the nutrition in food wastes are too precious to squander. Grub composting is a terrific way to quickly reduce food wastes down to where they can be safely added to a pile.  In as little as 24 hours, black soldier fly (BSF) larvae can render food scraps unrecognizable.  BioPod units have been specifically engineered to house and harvest BSF for composting food wastes.

Black Soldier Flies (BSF)

Most composters cringe at the thought of any insect labeled “fly”.  But hold on until you hear more!  The Black Soldier Fly (BSF) is a beneficial insect.  They don’t bite or sting.  The adults do not even have teeth.  They avoid humans and bright light, so they aren’t going to be buzzing around your head at a picnic.  They don’t transmit disease.  And the really, really good news is that their scent repels all those other “flies” that you loath, like the common housefly.

BSF live in most parts of the US and can easily be purchased on the Internet.  As a matter of fact, you have probably seen them on your compost pile when it has been very damp.  They look like blue-black wasps with no stinger.

Benefits of Grub Composting

Decomposition, which is accomplished by the BSF grubs, produces compost at a ratio of 20:1.  That means that 5 lbs. of grub castings will be produced for every 100 lbs. of food waste put into the system.  This is probably a lower volume of compost produced per volume of raw materials than you are used to if you use another composting method.

Liquids will be generated during the decomposition process and may be diluted at a ratio of 1 unit to 20 units of water for use as a plant fertilizer.  It is the scent in this liquid that repels the pest flies from your BSF unit.

The primary product of grub composting is the nutritious BSF grub, which can be used for food for songbirds, reptiles, chickens, koi, and a host of other animals, not to mention its use as a fish bait.  They are 42% protein and 34% fat, and are highly prized as a healthy food source for these animals.  The production of this valuable resource more than makes up for the lower yield of compost.

Grubs not used as food may be allowed to mature into the beneficial BSF adult, or frozen for later use as either live, healthy BSF or as food.  This is quite convenient since grub composting units aren’t year-round operations in areas that experience cold winter temperatures .  Frozen grubs from this year can re-populate your system next spring.

How to Establish a Black Soldier Fly Composting System

The most reliable way to start grub composting is with a BioPod system.  The folks who make BioPods have been studying the BSF for years and years, and have the kinks worked out of the system for you.  For instance, they know that the BSF does not like bright light, so the BioPod is set up with a convenience lid where you may quickly deposit food with minimal disturbance to the BSF in the unit.  This lid is constructed so that BSF females can freely enter the unit to lay their eggs, there is a continual air flow through the unit, and the feeding BSF are protected from rain.  Contents of the unit are held separate from excess liquids to avoid foul odors.  There is a drainage port where liquids can be drained off to be utilized as plant fertilizer, all without disturbance to the BSF population in the unit.

But the best aspect of this unit, especially for anyone who has experienced the labor-intensive harvesting of worm castings, is the self-harvesting feature of the bin.  There is a “migration ramp” built into the unit.  The unit is designed to work in concert with the grubs’ natural behavioral instincts of BSF, assuring that they will harvest themselves.  When grubs are ready to be harvested they loose their teeth, empty their digestive tract, and climb the built-in migration ramp.  When they reach the top of the ramp, they fall into a harvesting bucket.  Done!  You don’t have to do a thing but feed them to the chickens.

Mary Tynes, Master Composter, www.mastercomposter.com

 
22-Gallon Earth Tea Brewer

If you'd like to try a commercially-manufactured compost tea brewer, CompostMania recommends this 22-gallon Earth Tea Brewer is easy to assemble, use and clean.

We know we can improve soil by tilling several inches of finished compost into the top 8 – 10″ of garden soil before planting, or a similar amount onto bare ground prepared for laying sod.  But what about areas with established vegetation?   How can we apply compost to existing lawns, ornamental beds, trees and shrubbery without uprooting them?

One way is to simply put a top-dressing on the soil by laying 1″ of compost on top of the soil for shrubbery or trees, ¼” for lawns.  The living organisms in the soil will come to the surface to feed on the organic matter and pull it back into the soil with them.  As water falls from rain or sprinklers, nutrients will leach into the soil.  This is one effective application method for established vegetation.

However, if you want to get nutrients and living microorganisms down into the soil as fast as possible, consider brewing a batch of compost tea.  Use the tea to water the plants.  In liquid form, compost nutrients and microorganisms can reach the root zone very quickly.

How to Create Compost Tea

Fill half of a 5-gallon bucket with compost, then fill with water up to the rim.  Let it sit for a day or overnight, stirring occasionally to add air.  When you are ready to use, you may pour the mixture through cheesecloth to strain if you desire but it is not really necessary.

If you want to distribute your compost tea to a separate area from where you will use the remaining solid compost, straining is a good idea. Otherwise, it’s just an extra step.

Some people put the compost in a burlap sack rather than leaving it loose in the bucket, which makes it easier to separate the compost from the “tea.” However, if you are going to use it to water plants, it won’t hurt if solids are included.  The compost leftovers from the process should be used as a top-dressing anyway.

Caution Against Going Anaerobic

Remember to stir frequently, and don’t let your tea sit so long that it begins to smell foul.  A foul odor indicates that the tea has become anaerobic.  This is the natural result of leaving organic matter in stagnant water over time, so don’t beat yourself up for “doing it wrong”!  Just remember next time to stir more often and don’t let the tea sit so long before using it.

If your tea does begin to smell badly, try adding air by stirring and adding more water.  If the odor can’t be resolved, you can always pour it back into your compost pile and it will right itself very soon.

How to Use Compost Tea

Use the compost tea (essentially “dirty water”) to water your lawn or garden.  The water will seep into the soil to bring more of compost’s benefits down to the root zone.

5-Gallon Compost Tea Kit

For particularly easy, economical compost tea, CompostMania recommends this Compost Tea Kit complete with container, electric aerator, hoses and everything else you need for three complete brews.

Some sources suggest using compost tea as a foliar spray which reportedly controls various pests and disease.  If you want to use compost tea as a foliar spray, you should use a pump to keep the tea aerated the entire time it is being brewed.  I’ve written instructions for a simple pump you can make at home, or there are several commercial tea brewers on the market that provide aeration.

Using compost tea to water plants is much easier than using it as a foliar spray.  Use as a foliar spray requires better straining, and also involves more care with regard to the strength and composition of the tea.

What’s In It?  (Remember the “Garbage in, Garbage out” Principle)

When food manufacturers package their goods, they often list the ingredients and nutrients on the label.  They can do this because they have total control over the exact inputs to their product.

Home composting and even some large composting operations do not have that level of control over what goes into their compost pile.  Be wary of anyone telling you that a specific brewer will yield a compost tea with specific nutrient content.

The level of specific nutrients and microorganisms in your tea will be determined by what was in the compost that was used to make the tea.  Unless someone has the nutrient analysis of the compost used, they cannot tell you what will be in the tea with any certainty.

There are many scientific tests which show that compost tea used as foliar spray is effective against a specific pest or disease.  If you want to use compost tea to battle a specific pest, you will need to research what ingredients went into making the compost that was used to make the tea that was tested in the study.

These studies are quite fascinating reading, but are impractical for the average homeowner who has limited variety of compost inputs to choose from.  If, however, you have access to a variety of input materials, you may want to investigate the scientific research and conduct some compost tea experiments of your own.

Mary Tynes, Master Composter, www.mastercomposter.com

Image (top left): 22-Gallon Earth Tea Brewer

Image (middle right): 5-Gallon Compost Tea Brewing Kit

 
Curious to know if lasagna gardening worked, I tried a series of experiements with fabulous results.

These blackfoot daisies and verbena are growing in The Labyrinth Garden, which I have grown entirely through Lasagna Gardening methods.

Lasagna Gardening is essentially a method of gardening in a huge compost pile, but with no turning!  Many people are attracted to this layered, no-dig, no-till method because it uses organic materials while promising a huge reduction in labor.  The method was created by Pat Lanza.  I highly recommend that you read her books for a full description of the method before creating a Lasagna Garden, but I’ll give the basics of the method here. 

Brief Description of Lasagna Gardening

You can use this method for garden beds of all sizes, including very large or very small.  Cover the area with a thick layer of wet, overlapping newspapers to suppress existing weeds. 

Next, build the bed by laying down organic materials in 4-inch layers. (The method does not require alternating carbon and nitrogen layers like a compost pile, but a variety of materials is beneficial.)

Put the bulkier materials down first to form the bottom layers, then chopped or finer materials towards the top.  End with a layer of compost or soil.

Materials will decompose in place. 

If the bed you have created is high in nitrogen, wait until the temperature drops before planting.  Otherwise, you can install transplants right away. 

Plant transplants directly in the bed of decomposing matter; seeds can be planted in the top layer of soil or compost.  Over time, continue adding organic materials on top as mulch to replenish the bed.

 

Lasagna Gardening grew these ranunculus

These are ranunculus amongst iris leaves. The beds had not yet filled out with plants around them, so it's easy to see that they are planted in chopped leaves and grass clippings, not soil (i.e., Lasagna Gardening).

There’s No Way This Can Work . . . Is There?

When I first heard of Lasagna Gardening, I really had my doubts that this method would work.  After all, if people could just throw organic wastes in a bed to create a garden, why were we building, watering and turning compost piles (not to mention carting organic wastes and finished compost to and from the garden)? 

On the other hand, if it did work, I wanted people to know about it.  There was only one way to find out — try it for myself!  I conducted a number of experiments.

Results of My Experiments

I set up all kinds of tests. 

There were tests on beds with edging, and beds without edging, to see if the edging made a difference.  There were beds made to heat vs. beds made that would not heat. There were beds made of relatively inert materials like compost and peat moss vs. beds made of items that would undergo huge volume reduction such as leaves and grass clippings.  There were beds that were planted the same day that they were made vs. beds that were “cooked” for 6 weeks according to Ms. Lanza’s instructions.  There were beds with seeds vs. the same bed with transplants. There were deep beds and shallow beds and skinny beds and wide beds.

My general conclusion was that Lasagna Gardening works!  I have used it ever since.

There were specific discoveries I took away from my experiments:

The method works best with vegetables and other annuals rather than permanent plantings. 

In deep beds, roots at the bottom do become compacted but it doesn’t seem to negatively affect the robustness or growth of the plants.

It is best to let the bed cure for 6 weeks before you plant.  After building the bed, water and cover it with black plastic and let it sit.  After at least 6 weeks, remove the plastic and water again.  It is ready to plant.

If planting the same day the bed is built, hot beds work best (i.e., build the bed with watered nitrogen and carbon layers to a high of at least 2 feet).  If building hot beds, make sure the root ball doesn’t reach to the hot spot in the middle so that roots don’t get over 120 degrees F.

Build the bed in layers. 

If you don’t have enough of one material to make a 4” layer, make a 1” layer or whatever depth you can, but try to make it a uniform depth across the bed.  The reason for this is that if the materials are not consistent across the bed, they will decompose at different rates so that one section may be significantly lower than another.  This situation creates problems for plants trying to survive this settling such as fissures several inches wide and roots being torn out of the soil in the uneven sections of materials.

Mary Tynes, Master Composter, www.mastercomposter.com

LEARN MORE …

Compost Basics

Compost Ingredients

Compost Piles

 
Tips for Successful Lasagna Gardening

For a successful lasagna garden, follow these comprehensive, detailed tips from a Master Composter.

 
Troubleshooting Lasagna Gardening

As fun and easy as Lasagna Gardening can be, you may encounter a few bumps in the road. Here are tricks of the trade from a Master Composter.

 
Mulching

To protect bare soil, especially around trees and shrubs, use mulch which may be made from a wide variety of organic materials, such as straw or leaves.

 

If you don’t have room for a compost pile in your garden, try trench composting to make the most of your space.

 

Try one of the simplest composting techniques for disposing of food waste and pet feces — a soil ingestor, an anaerobic composting system you can build yourself.

 
Compost Pile Stinks

No matter how big your compost piles, or how numerous, done right they need not stink. Follow these tips for avoiding foul-smelling compost in your backyard.

 
Compost Pile is Decomposing Too Slowly

If you think your compost pile is decomposing too slowly, make sure you are turning it often enough and maintaining the right balance of ingredients.